FAQs

OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer

B2B – Business 2 Business

HS – High Security

FOBIK – Finger Operated Button Integrated Key

OBD – On-Board Diagnostics

FCC – Federal Communications Commission

OE # – Original Equipment Number

VIN – Vehicle Identification Number

MSRP – Manufacturer Suggested Retail Pricing

DLC – Diagnostic Link Connector

OBP – On-Board Programming

MHz – Megahertz (unit of measure for frequency)

Shipping is handled through UPS and all dropship orders start from our warehouse in Chicago, IL. You can expect standard shipping times of 3-5 business days. A tracking number is attached every order invoice once the package is marked as shipped. These invoices will be sent to the email on your account.

Suffixes (LSTB06, FLM_A02, etc.)

A - Transponder/FOBIK programming

R - Remote (fob) programming

B - Proximity remote programming

K - Self-programming

P - Pin code reading

U - Unlocking

Prefixes (GM_K01, Su_AR02, etc.)

GM - General Motors

Ma - Mazda

Mi - Mitsubishi

Su - Subaru

HA - Honda/Acura

JL - Jaguar/Land Rover

KH - Kia/Hyundai

NI - Nissan/Infiniti

VA - Volkswagen/Audi

CJD - Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge

FLM - Ford/Lincoln/Mercury

LST - Lexus/Scion/Toyota

Combination keys include both transponder and remote functions. These come in one of three varieties: remote head keys, flip keys, and FOBIKS. Remote head keys and flip keys are functionally similar, but flip keys can fold the blade into the remote and “flip” it out with a button. Sometimes called a switchblade key. FOBIKs are identified by their tear drop shape and distinctive plastic ignition tip in place of a metal key blade.

High security keyways are cut on the face of the blade, rather than the front, and generally contain a single center groove or no grooves at all, unlike standard side-cut blades. These are also referred to as sidewinder keys or laser cut keys. Typically found on newer model vehicles.

Insert keys can have either standard or high security blades and will accompany every proximity remote and FOBIK. These are used primarily for emergency access to the vehicle if the remote battery is dead and generally do not contain transponder chips.

Standard transponder keys are chipped keys with standard “side-cut” blades. This has been the same basic car key design for about 90 years. The key way is defined primarily by the grooves within the blade.

Valet keys are chipped keys that can start the engine, but they have special chips that can only be read by the car and not used to program additional keys. Not to be confused with metal topped “door keys” which cannot start the engine. Valet keys are typically gray-headed.

Proximity remotes are generally found on push-to-start vehicles. Most will program by using a programming slot, holding the remote on or near the Start/Stop button, or in some other specified programming area. Keep in mind that the SmartBox may interfere in rare cases, so it’s best practice to keep the SmartBox and the tablet to your left side away from the remote you’re trying to program. We recommend removing other wireless and Bluetooth electronics, such as cell phones, walkie talkies, etc. as well.

Typically found in older vehicles these remotes have lock and unlock functionality and some include panic buttons and remote start capability

In addition to the in-app updates for programming options that are required every 30 days, you may occasionally be prompted to download a new version of the app (called an .apk file on the tablet). These updates are rare, but independent from the usual updates. Major app updates such as this may require that you update your app despite being less than 30 days since your last update.

If you receive a communication error code on your SmartBox, reconnecting the cables and restarting the app can usually solve these issues. However, if the error code persists or you receive a different type of error code, contact tech support for further details.

Most vehicles program through the OBD port, but a select few will program through different ports. In those situations, you may need to use one of the included OBD adapters, such as the HY/KIA, HONDA-3, and KIA-20.

Some vehicles require an adapter for SmartBox to pull the pin code. The Widget note will read, "A programmed key and a SmartChip Adapter/tpx4 will be required to retrieve the PinCode from this vehicle." The SmartChip adapter is pictured here. Follow the instructions provided by your SmartBox to read the pin code with this adapter or refer to the Widget video for the vehicle in question for more information.

Since the cable requirements for the SmartBox are very specific, we don’t recommend replacing these on your own. If you have a damaged or missing cable that needs replacing, contact your Hillman rep and they will provide you with the correct cable every single time.

The Twister II comes standard with two sets of cutters/tracers. A wider set (FE01/TE01) for cutting dimple keys (note: not for use with vehicle keys) and a narrower set (FE04/TE04) for cutting most high security keys. However, the following vehicles will require an even narrower cutter/tracer set to cut their proximity remote insert keys. If you encounter one of these vehicles, contact your Hillman rep about ordering the correct cutter (FE05) and tracer (TE05) for your Twister II.

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Since you’re billed by Hillman for all MyKeyCounter orders, any order cancelations and returns must be initiated with Hillman Support at (844) 874-7908. This same number can be found on the support page or on the bottom of your SmartBox. Orders cannot be changed or modified once placed. If you must change an order, place the correct order and contact Hillman to cancel the incorrect order before it ships.

You may sometimes encounter a Widget note suggesting jumper cables or a battery pack be used. While programming attempts are unlikely to completely drain the vehicle’s battery, it can be enough of a drain to prevent the vehicle from accepting new keys or remotes properly. As a result, jumper cables are recommended as a way to maintain a full voltage on the battery, ensuring programming success the first time. See below for a diagram on how to properly connect jumper cables:

The OBD port (On-Board Diagnostics) is a trapezoid shaped port usually located on the driver’s side of the vehicle between the steering wheel and the pedals. Every vehicle is a little different, so it may be on the left or the right, placed horizontal or vertical, or sometimes with a cover or small cap covering it. If you have difficulty finding it, a quick internet search can usually help identify its location.

While vehicle registration is the most comprehensive vehicle identification, sometimes the quickest method to verifying a model year when we’re unsure is by using the VIN. The 10th digit will correspond to the year of the vehicle. The VIN can be found on the vehicle under the bottom of the windshield on the driver’s side (you will need to be outside the vehicle to read this). Check out the table below for corresponding digits and years: